Solo Whitesides Ice Routes 01-16-2011

It is hard to find ice climbing partners in the South. I headed to Whitesides by myself. Last night, I slept in my Subaru parked at the parking lot of Highland Hospital. The trail head parking lot at Whitesides is in a snobbish golf neighborhood which does not allow overnight parking. I guess the owners of the million-dollar home do not like climbing bums.

When I showed up Sunday morning around 9:30am, there was no car around. The parking lot was not plowed. I had to dig the snow underneath the tires to free my Subaru.

I cooked two packs of noodle, boiled water for tea and filled the thermos. After eating, drink, pee and poo, I was ready to go climbing. Scotch on Rock was my first route. I used the Mammut genesis 60m, carrying three screws and a few biners. I started climbing around 11am. It took me forever to get started. The first six feet was the crux. Thin ice smeared on a short vertical wall. I made a few attempts and worked out sequences before committing myself.

Always focus on one section. Breaking down the entire route in sections. One at a time. The next thirty feet was thin. I opted for the right side near the vegetation. The ice was thin and I tapped on every swing. Tap, rock, stop. Fifteen feet up I was scared. When in doubt, take a rest. I was contemplating. A group of climbers showed up and asked if they could climb behind me.

There were so many routes open and I did not know why they decided to climb below me. It was dangerous to them, and a distraction to me.

I put in a shortie screw for having a more relaxed rest. I was thinking of setting a self belay for the next ten feet. But then I decided not to: the rotten thin ice did not off too much comfort anyway. Looking the section ahead, the ice was 2-3 inches thick, enough for the tools to stick and secure front-pointing. I took several deep breathes and went for it. I told myself not to overgrip and to shake out after each swing. It helped a lot. I was very relieved when the steep part was behind me.

The second pitch was thin, but at least this year it was mostly covered by ice. Again, I picked the right side mossy turf for better footing and pick placement. The very top, unseen from the trail, was the fattest, I could whack my tools like climbing in Canada. Sweet!

Not knowing where to set the second rappel, I tied a stopper knot at the end of the rope. When I rappelled down, the leader of the party behind me was coming up. I exchanged some pleasantries with the dude. Thankfully, he spotted the knot before I pulled the rope, saving me from a possible stuck rope. Be careful! It took three rappels (70m) to reach the ground. It took me 90 minutes to do the whole thing. I was slow.

It was only 12:30pm. I was not ready to go home, yet. I studied the routes slowly, trying to find another one to climb. Two-hundred feet right of the Scotch on Rock, there is a nice line. I put down my pack and studied it more carefully. This route seems very straightforward. I told myself I would only go up 30 meters and that is it.

When I was 25 meters above the ground, I found a long strip of sweet-looking fat ice fall. It was the nicest ice I spotted that day. Fat ice is safe, as I could whack and hack. Two climbers were standing across this strip of ice. I chatted with them.

Jane: Are you guys gonna climb this?
-Um, maybe. Not right away. Our friends are still up over there.
Jane: Okay, do you mind if I go first?
-Go ahead!
-Do you need a belayer or you prefer solo?
(I looked my three screws. Smiled.)
Jane: Uh, that is fine. I do not have enough gear for pro anyway.

I shook out and took a few deep breathes. I closed my eyes and meditated, one, two, ... ten. I opened my eyes and went up like Barry Blanchard. I climbed with ease and confidence, shaking out and side stepping every where I could. No overdrive, no screaming calves, no panting. It was following smoothly, all the way. After a snow slope, the last part was a short fatty wall. Just for the kick, I set up a self belay as practice. I'd better practicing this so later if I do feel desperate, I would know how to do it.

It took me significantly less time to finish this route. If I had a 70m rope, two rappels would get me down.

When I reached parking lot around 2:20pm, it was full of cars. One SUV got stuck and people were grudgingly digging. I apologized for not parking properly and made room by leaving right away.