Monday, July 4, 2011
Baldy, May 4th, 2011
I convinced Ronny that it would be better for her recovery to hike in Mt. Baldy the day after her ulna nerve decompression surgery. The worse thing was that she agreed it was a good idea. So we drove up the mountain and first stopped at the trail head of the Ice House Canyon. It was hot we sat by the creek watching lizards on the rocks. Then we drove up to the end of the road. I would go for a run up the mountain while Ronny waiting in the Mini. I took off with a GPS, wearing the leather Lizard sandals. It took me 28 minutes to go up 1.5 miles and 17 minutes to get down. The watermelon tasted really good after the hike.
Monday, January 17, 2011
Solo Whitesides Ice Routes 01-16-2011
It is hard to find ice climbing partners in the South. I headed to Whitesides by myself. Last night, I slept in my Subaru parked at the parking lot of Highland Hospital. The trail head parking lot at Whitesides is in a snobbish golf neighborhood which does not allow overnight parking. I guess the owners of the million-dollar home do not like climbing bums.
When I showed up Sunday morning around 9:30am, there was no car around. The parking lot was not plowed. I had to dig the snow underneath the tires to free my Subaru.
I cooked two packs of noodle, boiled water for tea and filled the thermos. After eating, drink, pee and poo, I was ready to go climbing. Scotch on Rock was my first route. I used the Mammut genesis 60m, carrying three screws and a few biners. I started climbing around 11am. It took me forever to get started. The first six feet was the crux. Thin ice smeared on a short vertical wall. I made a few attempts and worked out sequences before committing myself.
Always focus on one section. Breaking down the entire route in sections. One at a time. The next thirty feet was thin. I opted for the right side near the vegetation. The ice was thin and I tapped on every swing. Tap, rock, stop. Fifteen feet up I was scared. When in doubt, take a rest. I was contemplating. A group of climbers showed up and asked if they could climb behind me.
There were so many routes open and I did not know why they decided to climb below me. It was dangerous to them, and a distraction to me.
I put in a shortie screw for having a more relaxed rest. I was thinking of setting a self belay for the next ten feet. But then I decided not to: the rotten thin ice did not off too much comfort anyway. Looking the section ahead, the ice was 2-3 inches thick, enough for the tools to stick and secure front-pointing. I took several deep breathes and went for it. I told myself not to overgrip and to shake out after each swing. It helped a lot. I was very relieved when the steep part was behind me.
The second pitch was thin, but at least this year it was mostly covered by ice. Again, I picked the right side mossy turf for better footing and pick placement. The very top, unseen from the trail, was the fattest, I could whack my tools like climbing in Canada. Sweet!
Not knowing where to set the second rappel, I tied a stopper knot at the end of the rope. When I rappelled down, the leader of the party behind me was coming up. I exchanged some pleasantries with the dude. Thankfully, he spotted the knot before I pulled the rope, saving me from a possible stuck rope. Be careful! It took three rappels (70m) to reach the ground. It took me 90 minutes to do the whole thing. I was slow.
It was only 12:30pm. I was not ready to go home, yet. I studied the routes slowly, trying to find another one to climb. Two-hundred feet right of the Scotch on Rock, there is a nice line. I put down my pack and studied it more carefully. This route seems very straightforward. I told myself I would only go up 30 meters and that is it.
When I was 25 meters above the ground, I found a long strip of sweet-looking fat ice fall. It was the nicest ice I spotted that day. Fat ice is safe, as I could whack and hack. Two climbers were standing across this strip of ice. I chatted with them.
Jane: Are you guys gonna climb this?
-Um, maybe. Not right away. Our friends are still up over there.
Jane: Okay, do you mind if I go first?
-Go ahead!
-Do you need a belayer or you prefer solo?
(I looked my three screws. Smiled.)
Jane: Uh, that is fine. I do not have enough gear for pro anyway.
I shook out and took a few deep breathes. I closed my eyes and meditated, one, two, ... ten. I opened my eyes and went up like Barry Blanchard. I climbed with ease and confidence, shaking out and side stepping every where I could. No overdrive, no screaming calves, no panting. It was following smoothly, all the way. After a snow slope, the last part was a short fatty wall. Just for the kick, I set up a self belay as practice. I'd better practicing this so later if I do feel desperate, I would know how to do it.
It took me significantly less time to finish this route. If I had a 70m rope, two rappels would get me down.
When I reached parking lot around 2:20pm, it was full of cars. One SUV got stuck and people were grudgingly digging. I apologized for not parking properly and made room by leaving right away.
When I showed up Sunday morning around 9:30am, there was no car around. The parking lot was not plowed. I had to dig the snow underneath the tires to free my Subaru.
I cooked two packs of noodle, boiled water for tea and filled the thermos. After eating, drink, pee and poo, I was ready to go climbing. Scotch on Rock was my first route. I used the Mammut genesis 60m, carrying three screws and a few biners. I started climbing around 11am. It took me forever to get started. The first six feet was the crux. Thin ice smeared on a short vertical wall. I made a few attempts and worked out sequences before committing myself.
Always focus on one section. Breaking down the entire route in sections. One at a time. The next thirty feet was thin. I opted for the right side near the vegetation. The ice was thin and I tapped on every swing. Tap, rock, stop. Fifteen feet up I was scared. When in doubt, take a rest. I was contemplating. A group of climbers showed up and asked if they could climb behind me.
There were so many routes open and I did not know why they decided to climb below me. It was dangerous to them, and a distraction to me.
I put in a shortie screw for having a more relaxed rest. I was thinking of setting a self belay for the next ten feet. But then I decided not to: the rotten thin ice did not off too much comfort anyway. Looking the section ahead, the ice was 2-3 inches thick, enough for the tools to stick and secure front-pointing. I took several deep breathes and went for it. I told myself not to overgrip and to shake out after each swing. It helped a lot. I was very relieved when the steep part was behind me.
The second pitch was thin, but at least this year it was mostly covered by ice. Again, I picked the right side mossy turf for better footing and pick placement. The very top, unseen from the trail, was the fattest, I could whack my tools like climbing in Canada. Sweet!
Not knowing where to set the second rappel, I tied a stopper knot at the end of the rope. When I rappelled down, the leader of the party behind me was coming up. I exchanged some pleasantries with the dude. Thankfully, he spotted the knot before I pulled the rope, saving me from a possible stuck rope. Be careful! It took three rappels (70m) to reach the ground. It took me 90 minutes to do the whole thing. I was slow.
It was only 12:30pm. I was not ready to go home, yet. I studied the routes slowly, trying to find another one to climb. Two-hundred feet right of the Scotch on Rock, there is a nice line. I put down my pack and studied it more carefully. This route seems very straightforward. I told myself I would only go up 30 meters and that is it.
When I was 25 meters above the ground, I found a long strip of sweet-looking fat ice fall. It was the nicest ice I spotted that day. Fat ice is safe, as I could whack and hack. Two climbers were standing across this strip of ice. I chatted with them.
Jane: Are you guys gonna climb this?
-Um, maybe. Not right away. Our friends are still up over there.
Jane: Okay, do you mind if I go first?
-Go ahead!
-Do you need a belayer or you prefer solo?
(I looked my three screws. Smiled.)
Jane: Uh, that is fine. I do not have enough gear for pro anyway.
I shook out and took a few deep breathes. I closed my eyes and meditated, one, two, ... ten. I opened my eyes and went up like Barry Blanchard. I climbed with ease and confidence, shaking out and side stepping every where I could. No overdrive, no screaming calves, no panting. It was following smoothly, all the way. After a snow slope, the last part was a short fatty wall. Just for the kick, I set up a self belay as practice. I'd better practicing this so later if I do feel desperate, I would know how to do it.
It took me significantly less time to finish this route. If I had a 70m rope, two rappels would get me down.
When I reached parking lot around 2:20pm, it was full of cars. One SUV got stuck and people were grudgingly digging. I apologized for not parking properly and made room by leaving right away.
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